Manufacturing Processes for Jewelry

For centuries, jewelry has been used for personal adornment. Jewelry is a symbol of status, power, love, friendship and romance. The finished piece of jewelry that we take utmost pleasure in wearing comes to us as a result of elaborate and intricate methods of manufacturing.

Jewelry manufacturing is an art in itself, right from conception of an idea to its execution. As a designer or even as a consumer it is essential to have knowledge of how jewelry is manufactured. From the point of view of a designer it is extremely important to ensure that designs sketched stand true to the test of practicality. A good looking design might not be a practical one! And from the point of view of a consumer it is important because of the price variations that come in due to the method of manufacturing. For example if a piece of jewelry is hand crafted it will demand a higher price because the process is very laborious and slow. Whereas, a casted piece of jewelry will demand a lower price because casting is a method used for bulk production.

Further listed below are various methods of manufacturing jewelry.

HAND FABRICATION/BENCH- MADE: it is the most ancient method which is used to make jewelry. In this method the piece is manufactured manually using various techniques such as sawing, filing, annealing, soldering, setting and finishing. It is a dying art because it takes the most skill and time but it yields the highest quality of finish possible.

PROCESS OF HAND FABRICATION

ADVANTAGES:

• It promotes creativity as design options are unlimited.
• It is able to exhibit the skill and work of each craftsman individually.
• It requires less cleaning and finishing.

DISADVANTAGES:

• It is a very time consuming process.
• The cost of production is high.
• It is a laborious process.

LOST WAX INVESTMENT CASTING: this method is believed to be more than 5000 years old. In this process a duplicate metal sculpture is casted from the original piece.

First and foremost in this process a master piece which one wishes to replicate is needed.

The master is then sandwiched in between two silicone sheets under extreme heat and pressure.

In heat silicone becomes hard and rubbery. After cooling, master is cut out and the mould is separated in two halves.

Melted wax is then injected under pressure in the mould.

After cooling wax model is removed. Various such models are created.

These are then attached to a wax tree. Many parts can be casted on a single tree wax.

Then a flask is fit over this tree and then investment (plaster of Paris) poured into the flask. The POP mix before being put in the flask is put in a vaccum to remove all air bubbles. It is then left for setting which takes about fifteen minutes.

After pouring the POP mix, the flask is again put in the vaccum. Then the flask is put in a furnace. As a result wax melts out creating a cavity in the plaster.

Then the flask is inverted and with the help of the hole at the base of the tree molten metal is poured in the flask. Then the flask is cooled by plunging it in cold water.

Once the flask is out solidified metal pieces are clipped from the tree and are cleaned up. Next step is filing and polishing

MASTER

WAX TREE AND INVESTMENT

MELTING WAX IN FURNACE AND POURING METAL

ADVANTAGES:

• It is relatively a quick way of making identical pieces. Thus, it is a time saving process.
• It turns out to be economical when many pieces are produced from the same mould.
•  It provides unlimited design possibilities.

DISADVANTAGES:

• Cast metal is less suitable for fine engraving because of porosity.
• It requires more cleaning and finishing than other methods.

ELECTROPLATING: electroplating process originated in 1830’s. This turned out to be an accurate and convenient method to reproduce antique objects. This method originally required a very high Karat of gold, which was about 23.5K. But with technological advancements it was done with 18K and 14K gold. From then this method became very popular.

Electroplating can be defined as a process of depositing precious metal over another less expensive metal. It is usually used to produce light weight jewelry.

For electroforming firstly, the metal which is to be electroplated is thoroughly cleaned and dipped in distilled water. Then this piece is attached to the negative cathode.

Then in a container the electroplating solution is filled which is called the electrolyte. In this electrolyte the metal to be deposited is put. Now the negative cathode and positive anode is immersed in the electrolyte.

The current is then switched on. The whole apparatus is connected to a rectifier which changes the alternative current from a normal plug to direct current. This conversion is important since alternating current is stronger and it might burn the metal.

From here on, the deposition process begins. Slowly the metal piece is coated with a thin layer of depositing material.

ELECTROFORMING

ADVANTAGES:

• This process is helpful in creating costume jewelry.
• Electroformed pieces are able to exhibit fine details and minute engravings.

DISADVANTAGES:

• Electroformed pieces dent easily. Once such pieces are dented or broken it is not possible to repair them.
• Cost of production is high due to expensive equipments.
• Electroformed jewelry is not suitable for stone mountings.

STAMPING: it is a procedure in which the metal is pressed between steel dies in a hydraulic press at very high pressure for industrial purposes. This method is ideal for large scale production and is widely used for manufacturing coins, pendants, earrings and shanks. On a smaller scale it can be taken up individually and with the help of stamps, hammer and other tools.

STAMPING

ADVANTAGES:

• Cost of production is low.
• It gives consistent quality and uniformity.
• Pieces produced require less cleaning and finishing.

DISADVANTAGES:

• In this process design options are limited.
• It is not suitable for stone setting.

In-depth knowledge of methods of production always yields good results. It gives one the confidence to design jewelry as it makes one aware of the practical aspects of production. 

 To have a clearer understanding of the processes one must visit a factory site.

*The Author is a Colored Stone Graduate from Gemological Institute of America, Mumbai and a Diamond Graduate from Solitaire Diamond Institute, Bangalore. She also holds a Diploma in Jewelry Designing & Manufacturing from Jewelry Product Development Centre, Jaipur. She also blogs at 'The Jewel Affair'

*Picture Courtesy: Google Images

Doodles and Jewellery

Article by Rakshan Zoya

Jewellery Designing Instructor, SDI

The first thing a person does when handed with a pen and paper is autograph their names. And the next thing would be to sketch  random images and figures..

These random drawing are called doodles

A huge source of great artistic creations comes as a result of this impulsive and impromptu doodles and  Jewellery is no exception.. A random sketch on paper can be improvised and converted into a beautiful Jewellery piece.

The following rendered jewellery sketch  is inspired form doodles, made with Emeralds, Citrines and Diamonds set in yellow gold and screaming elegance in its style.

Jewellery design: Rakshan Zoya 

Check out our Facebook page on the same article:

 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=726011887464436&set=a.355598907839071.82905.100001668932817&type=1&theater

Koh-I-Noor

Nature’s one of the most scintillating creations is Diamonds. They are truly a symbol of breath taking beauty, rarity, durability and of never ending love.

These sparkling beauties have traveled a long way in the history. When a diamond is set into an ornament it is believed to be at least billions of years old. Diamonds endure enormous pressure when they are being formed under the structural layers of the Earth under precise conditions. If we look at the chemical composition of diamonds they exist in the simplest forms of carbon but they make the world’s biggest treasures.

THE KOH-I-NOOR

In this post we explore the journey of the world’s greatest diamond

 KOH -I- NOOR.

• Weight: 105.6 carats (21.6 grams approximately)
• Cut: Oval brilliant
• Color: Colourless
• Current location: Tower of London

Koh-I-Noor literally means the “mountain of light” in Persian. The first account of this beauty is believed to be in the early Sanskrit script which goes back to almost 5000 years. It is speculated that it was mentioned as the syamantaka in the texts. Hindus believe that this diamond was obtained by lord Krishna from Jambvanth whose daughter he had married.

It was discovered in the Golconda mines of Guntur district of Andhra Pradesh, India. The next reference dates back to 1304 where it was in the ownership of Mahlak Deo, the Raja of Malwa. Mahlak Deo then lost it the Kakatiya dynasty and then it further went on to the Lodhi dynasty.

According to the memoirs of Mughal Emperor Babur, Babur Nama in 1526 when he invaded the fort of Agra he acquired the diamond which then weighed around 186 carats. It was presumably presented to him as peshkash or tribute by Sultan Ibrahim Lodhi. Thereafter the gem was known as Babur’s Diamond.

There exists an alternative theory regarding how the Kohinoor came to the Mughal dynasty. It is believed that Mir Jumla a reputed diamond merchant from Persia, who was employed by the ruler of Golconda, got into an alliance with the ruler’s mother. To prevent a scandal he was sent to the mines where his fortune took a turn and he acquired the prized diamond. Around 1656 he then presented it to the then Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan who got it set in his famous Peacock Throne.

Babur’s Diamond for two centuries went into the hands of many rulers and subsequently was inherited by Mohammed Shah, the corrupt Mughal Emperor. At this time the strength of the great Mughal Dynasty was decreasing and in the skies of Persia a new star was rising, Nadir Shah. By 1739 he had conquered Delhi and made Mohammed Shah his prisoner and seized the crown jewels. But to his dismay he could not find the diamond anywhere. On one fine day a lady informed him that Mohammed Shah wore the magnificent diamond in the pleats of his turban. So Nadir Shah invited him for a royal feat and in the course of his meals he proposed an exchange of their turbans in the spirit of brotherhood. Seeing the gem Shah exclaimed ‘Koh-I-Noor’ and that is how the famous diamond acquired its name.

In 1747 Nadir Shah was murdered in his sleep and then the diamond was inherited by his grandson Shah Rukh Mirza. He then awarded it to Ahmad Abdali, his loyal supporter. Abdali then went on to become the ruler of Afghanistan. After several years his brother Shah Shuja escaped to Lahore due to war for his brother’s throne. He took refuge with the Sikh ruler Maharaja Ranjit Singh who was known as the ‘Lion of Punjab’. Ranjit Singh in 1813 managed to take away the diamond from him as a payment for the protection he was providing Shah Shuja and his family.

 

ARMLET OF RANJIT SINGH

After Ranjit Singh’s reign weak rulers reigned over Punjab. In 1843 Duleep Singh became the new Maharaja, who was still a minor. In 1849 the British annexed Punjab and included it in their empire. He then signed the Treaty of Lahore which was brought to him by Lord Dalhousie, the British Governor General. The treaty had a clause which stated that the Koh-I-Noor must be handed over to the queen of England. In 1850, the East India Company presented Queen Victoria with the celebrated diamond. 

 

QUEEN VICTORIA

But when the diamond was presented to the queen she and her reigning monarch, Prince Albert was disappointed with the lack of brilliance of Koh-I-Noor. They ordered the diamond to be re-cut. This difficult task was given Voorzanger- the foremost cutter of the reputed Dutch firm Coster. Unfortunately the re-cutting did not increase the brilliance greatly. However, Queen wore the diamond for 5 years. In 1902 it was set in the Imperial Crown for her daughter in law Queen Alexandra and again in Queen Mary’s crown in 1911.

 

IMPERIAL CROWN
(QUEEN ALEXANDRA)

QUEEN MARY'S CROWN
(QUEEN MARY)

Koh-I-Noor is said to be unlucky for male Emperors and in England has been worn only by Queens. Its current weight is now estimated to be 105.602 carats.

Ownership of Koh-I-Noor is a controversial issue due to its unclear history. India after attaining independence tried to claim the diamond, but in vain.

Britain claims to be the owner of the celebrated Diamond and it is kept open for public display in the Jewel House at the Tower of London as a symbol of British National Heritage.

Koh-I-Noor’s journey is a reflection of its awe-inspiring beauty. It has seen the peaks and valleys; betrayal, romance, loyalty & royalty. Although Koh-I-Noor accounts to half of the entire World’s daily expenses and the fact that it was used by some of the World’s most imposing historical figures makes it priceless.

*The Author is a Colored Stone Graduate from Gemological Institute of America, Mumbai and a Diamond Graduate from Solitaire Diamond Institute, Bangalore. She also holds a Diploma in Jewelry Designing & Manufacturing from Jewelry Product Development Centre, Jaipur. She also blogs at 'The Jewel Affair'

*Picture Courtesy: Google Images

Padparadscha Sapphire

Creativity of Nature- Padparadscha Sapphire 

 

By Raunak Agarwal

Gemologist and Gemology Instructor, SDI

The rarest and most valuable colour in sapphire is called Padparadacha. The name, as esoteric as the colour is elusive, is said to derive from the Sinhalese term for lotus flower.
Experts sometimes disagree on the exact colour for Padparadscha. Walter Schumann, whose book Gemstones of the World is virtually a bible for the gem trade, characterise Padparadscha sapphire as "pinkish orange".

Rough of Padparadscha

Since Padparadscha comes from the term for lotus flower, couldn't we define the colour by looking at the lotus flower? That would be fine, except lotus flowers come in red, pink, blue, white and pale yellow. In Buddhism the pink lotus is regarded as the 'supreme lotus,' and the lotus associated with the historical Buddha. So maybe we should be looking at a pink lotus.
If we look at a pink lotus, the flower is decidedly pink. There is really no orange at all, except for the stamens and the seed cup (which is more yellow than orange). So it doesn't look like nature will help us define the color of Padparadscha.
The best consensus we've found from our reading of the gemological literature is that a Padparadscha sapphire must display both orange and pink hues with a pastel tone. There is no agreement on whether orange or pink should predominate. We've looked at hundreds of photos of alleged Padparadschas, and many look entirely pink or entirely orange to us.
Natural unheated Padparadscha sapphires are so rare that they can be as valuable as diamond. You will rarely find them anywhere. More common are pink or orange sapphires that have been treated with beryllium to look something like the Padparadscha colour. Usually the color is too saturated or the tone is too dark to look like a genuine Padparadscha.

Padparadscha Set in Jewellery

If you really love the Padparadscha-like colour, but out of your budget then it may be easier to find it in tourmaline than in sapphire. Many pink tourmaline have a delicate touch of orange and yellow, with the right pastel tone to meet the Padparadscha requirement.

Diamonds Forever?

Are Diamonds Really Forever?

Raunak Agarwal

Gemologist and Gemology Instructor, SDI

In the past, the Greeks and Romans thought that the diamonds were tears of Gods and small pieces of stars. There were also the Hindus, who thought that the diamonds has so much power that they put diamonds in the eyes of some of their deity idols. Other people believed that an unapproachable valley in Central Asia covered by diamonds existed. One said that this valley was "kept by birds of prey and protected by snakes of mortal stare."

South Indian Hindu God's Idol studded in Diamonds

Besides believing that diamonds could attract luck and success, people also thought that they could defy the astrological events. Many people used them as jewels, supposing they would be increasing their sexual power and capacity to attract. Even Plato wrote about diamonds, describing them as living creatures, impersonating divine spirits.

Until the 15th century, only kings were allowed to use diamonds, having them as a symbol of courage, power and invincibility. But as the centuries passed by, the diamonds of the world came from India. From the period of the Roman Empire to the appearance of the first Europeans to India, in the beginning of the 16th century, the commercial relations between Europe and Eastern Asia bloomed.

One of the main routes of the diamond commerce was in Venice. The city became the most important mercantile republic of the western world. It enjoyed the monopoly of the commerce of the diamond course to the main cities of the south of Germany until its final destiny, Brussels. Since this city became the final phase of the commercial route, it became a promising center of diamond stature, and the reputation of the city in this sector did not stop increasing. Even though Brussels maintained their predominance until the end of the 14th Century, they began to decline in a lapse of fifty years. The diamond trade and numerous other economic activities of Brussels were moved progressively to the city of Amber's, which offered more recent and better facilities for the communications and the commercial exchange. Tn 1886, the first diamond in South Africa was discovered. Following this was the discovery of deposits of Kimberley few years later, giving birth to fabulous era of Kimberley.

Rough Diamond

The word diamond comes from the Greek word 'adamas', meaning invincible and 'diaphanes', that means transparent. In the past centuries, people believed that a diamond could reattach a wrecked marriage. It was used also in battles as a symbol of courage.

Even though the diamond is the hardest rock known to men, it id the only precious gem with only one element: carbon. Nevertheless, it can only be melted when exposed to a temperature of 5500 degrees Celsius! Billions of years before, the basic forces of heat and pressure miraculous transformed the carbon into diamond through volcano lava underneath the earth. In some way, this volcanic mass was expelled out of the earthly crust, coiling soon to be found as diamonds in rudimentary form. No acid can destroy them, and they are capable to cut anything on Earth, therefore, they only can be cut with themselves.
 
However, are the diamonds really forever? If they appeared miraculously, can they be destroyed? As incredible as it may seem, the small diamond that adorn the ring that you gave your wife will probably last forever- at least while Earth exists. Thy are the most resistant minerals of the planet, and only can b melted when displayed to a temperature of 5500 degree Celsius. The problem is that the global atmosphere will never achieve this high temperature, even if it was to be hit by an enormous meteor that would eliminate all forms of life. They only would melt if, one day, the planet literally entered the Sun, which has a temperature of 5800 degree Celsius. The curious thing is that, according to astronomers, in 7.5 billion years our planet will actually enter the Sun, when the star will be next to death. If you think diamonds will disappear then, you might be wrong. When such episode happens, the temperature of the Sun will lower to about 3000 degree Celsius. That means that even when the Earth reaches an atmosphere as hot and dense as Mercury's atmosphere, we will still be able to find some small diamonds spread around. 

A Necklace with a Story!

Majestic diamond Necklace of Baroda!!

By

Divya Gadiya 

Student of Jewellery Designing, SDI 

“Diamonds adorn the beauty of every women”. This saying gets its life, when it comes to Baroda diamond necklace. Maharani Sitadevi, also known as Indian Wallis Simpsons was flamboyant about her jewellery. And one of its kind is the three tiered diamond necklace. The diamonds in the necklace are unique in itself and set in its own beautiful way that it not only adorns the wearer but also grabs the attention of viewer.

As the moon becomes conspicuous and distinctive in the sky on a full moon day, the three tired diamond necklace becomes noticeable with its cushion cut “Star of South” diamond which was discovered in Brazil and pear cut “English Dresden” diamond, which weighs to 128.48 carat and 76.5 carat respectively. Both the diamond acts as a heart of the necklace surrounded by 84 Golconda diamonds. These diamonds were given the shape of necklace in the year 1934 according to one of the sources. The another sources facts out that English Dresden diamond had been set in a necklace along with its sister diamond , the Star of South in 1880. (The fact is unknown).

With this piece, the treasure of Baroda was up with one more expensive jewellery along with many other pieces. The magnificent and magnanimous piece belonged to Gaekwad of Baroda, Maharajkhande Rao and was passed on to the generations, and was handed over to government of India after independence, when government of India sent an ultimatum to MaharajPratapsinghGaekwadto relinquish the treasure of Baroda, the Baroda diamond Piece was handed over to government of India along with other jewellery.

Before handing it over to government of India, Sitadevi, wife of MaharajPratapsingh was holding the custody of this necklace and after independence the star of south was last seen in at Bombay in 2002 when Cartier Bought it from RustomjeeJamsetji. The current owner is unknown.

Baroda Diamond necklace is an important part in the history of Indian jewellery and it will continue to be the glorious part of Indian jewellery.  

Diamond Necklace of Baroda  

 

Bibliography Sources:

http://www.internetstones.com/baroda-pearl-necklace-maharajah-khande-rao-gaekwad.html

http://www.reenaahluwalia.com/blog/

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/36099234486804815/

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f50/royal-historic-jewelry-102397-7.html

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/542402348842512014/

http://www.gaekwadsofbaroda.com/content/incredible-jewels-baroda

http://famousdiamonds.tripod.com/starofthesouthdiamond.html