Friday, 27 December 2013

A Necklace with a Story!

Majestic diamond Necklace of Baroda!!

Divya Gadiya 
Student of Jewellery Designing, SDI 

“Diamonds adorn the beauty of every women”. This saying gets its life, when it comes to Baroda diamond necklace. Maharani Sitadevi, also known as Indian Wallis Simpsons was flamboyant about her jewellery. And one of its kind is the three tiered diamond necklace. The diamonds in the necklace are unique in itself and set in its own beautiful way that it not only adorns the wearer but also grabs the attention of viewer.

As the moon becomes conspicuous and distinctive in the sky on a full moon day, the three tired diamond necklace becomes noticeable with its cushion cut “Star of South” diamond which was discovered in Brazil and pear cut “English Dresden” diamond, which weighs to 128.48 carat and 76.5 carat respectively. Both the diamond acts as a heart of the necklace surrounded by 84 Golconda diamonds. These diamonds were given the shape of necklace in the year 1934 according to one of the sources. The another sources facts out that English Dresden diamond had been set in a necklace along with its sister diamond , the Star of South in 1880. (The fact is unknown).

With this piece, the treasure of Baroda was up with one more expensive jewellery along with many other pieces. The magnificent and magnanimous piece belonged to Gaekwad of Baroda, Maharajkhande Rao and was passed on to the generations, and was handed over to government of India after independence, when government of India sent an ultimatum to MaharajPratapsinghGaekwadto relinquish the treasure of Baroda, the Baroda diamond Piece was handed over to government of India along with other jewellery.
Before handing it over to government of India, Sitadevi, wife of MaharajPratapsingh was holding the custody of this necklace and after independence the star of south was last seen in at Bombay in 2002 when Cartier Bought it from RustomjeeJamsetji. The current owner is unknown.

Baroda Diamond necklace is an important part in the history of Indian jewellery and it will continue to be the glorious part of Indian jewellery.  

Diamond Necklace of Baroda  


Bibliography Sources:

Tuesday, 2 July 2013

Thewa Jewellery

From the land of Kings

                                                    -Thewa Jewellery 

                                          -Anagha Pamidi                                          
  Jewellery Designing Instructor, SDI            

                            Located on the north-western side of the Indian Sub- Continent, is the "land of kings"- the state of Rajasthan. "Heritagization" of the state is versatile; from its culture, traditions and wisdom in all creative fields, Rajasthan has always established its unique place on the map of India. Since, everything about this state is heritage driven- then how does jewellery not from a part of its exquisite heirloom of culture?
              Thewa Jewellery is the unanimous answer to this question. Passed down from generations, probably older than the countries democratic existence, Thewa Jewellery has always maintained its unique stance, as a creative art form of making jewellery.
                 Thewa Jewellery, also spelled phonetically as "Theva Jewellery", was quite a sensation amongst the Europeans settled in the Colonial India. They fondly referred to this piece of work as "Partabhgraph Work". The name is synonymous to the place of origin, Pratapgarh, Rajasthan. The probable date of origin is around 18th Century to early 19th Century in Pratapgarh, which invariable spread to Indore, Madhya Pradesh.
A Rendered Thewa Pendant Designed By Anagha Pamidi

                  The methodology of this craftsmanship is "..superficially like enamelling but uses opposite techniques, for rather than heating coloured vitreous paste to fuse it to a metal base, the jeweller overlays an open work design in metal onto the top of a solid, coloured glass base. The outline of an image or scene is incised on a thin sheet of gold( with details such as the eyes or clothes of human figures lightly chased), and the background is cut away to produce a delicate open- work design, which then, Oppi Untracht explains in his account of the technique, fused by heat to a flat piece of coloured glass. .."
                  ".. The glass cell is backed by foil to reflect light and contained in a sliver- gilt surround  to make a plaque suitable for use in a variety of ornaments. .." According to the preference of the wearer the gilt can be either gold or silver. To make this technique even more appealing, craftsmen do include filigree work around the frame.
                      To encourage this ancient methodology of work, The Government of India has issued a posting stamp, depicting the illustration of this particular jewellery work. In 2004, this stamp was issued. Adding to the laurels of this already popular work, since 1996 this creative art form has garnered 9 national awards, giving it the right to be an ever lasting favourite jewellery piece of India.


Barnard, Nick; Indian Jewellery; V & A Publication; 2008
Aitken, Emma, Molly ; When Gold Blossoms- A Collection Susan L.Beningson Collection; 2004


Friday, 28 June 2013

Artical on World's Famous Diamond's- Part I


-Raunak Agarwal
Gemology Instructor, SDI

Although diamonds are found in many countries, some of them stand above all for their weight, shine, abnormal beauty, efficacy, lesser availability and divinity. Let us discuss them one by one.

  1. KOHINOOR: This 105 carat diamond once belonged to Rana Ranjit Sing of Punjab. It was purchased by the Shah of Iran in 1739 from the Raja with the help of the Britishers who had started spreading their wings in India then. Later it was procured by the East India Co. which presented it to Queen of England. It was later fixed in the crown of the Queen Mary. At present it is in the custody of London Tower. India Govt. has asked for the stone back, as it was taken forcefully.
    Kohinoor Diamond

    Queen Alexandra's Crown with Kohinoor Diamond
  2.  HOPE: The Hope originated from India in Golconda where it was mined at the Kollur mine. According to the legend the diamond was stolen from a statue of the Hindu goddess Sita. It weighed in rough 112 carets and was first known as the "Tavernier Blue"as it was aquired by Jean- Baptiste Tavernier (1605-1689), the French traveller and pioneer of jewellery and diamond trade with India. The French Blue was then passed from one ruling French King to the next until the French Revolution when it was stolen. What happened next was a bit of a mystery but in 1839 an entry of a fabulous Blue Diamond was entered in the gem collection catalog of Henry Philip Hope,the man from whom the diamond now takes its name. It passed through several owners before an American heiress named Mrs. Evalyn Walsh McLean brought it to the United States. She added its current setting- it is now surrounded by 16 white diamonds and hangs on a chain of 45 diamonds. It was said that "Bad Luck and Death not only for the owner of the diamond but for all who touched it". Possession of the Hope Diamond led to violent deaths, disaster and debt leading to stories, myths and legends of the Curse of the Hope Diamond. It is currently Housed in the Smithsonian National History Museum in the USA.
    Hope Diamond on Display at Smithsonian National History Museum
  3. SHAH: This 88.7 carat weighing diamond was also procured from Indian mine. It was very lightly polished. It changed hands many times and ultimatly reached the Shah of India and was retained by him for a long period. In 1829 the Shah presented it to Tsar Nicholas the First. At present it is lying in Kremlin (MOSCOE).
    Shah Diamond
  4. CULLINAN I: This 530.20 carat weighing diamond was cut, trimmed and polished from the 3106 carat weighing diamond, perhaps the heaviest diamond so far taken out. It has got its name from Sir Thomas Cullinan, the chairman of the main company. This diamond adorns London Tower at the present. It is also Star of Africa.
    Cullinan Diamond

    Sovereign's Royal Sceptre of the British Crown Jewels
  5. NASSAK: This diamond was looted by the Britishers from the Shiv Temple in Nassak in 1818. Then it weighing 43.38 carat. It was trimmed. At present it is owned by some Rich American.
    Nassak Diamond
  6. DRESDEN: It was acquired from a mine in India. This 41 carat diamond was bought by Duke Augusta in 1700. It is at present in the Green Hall of Dresden.
    Dresden Diamond
Sumptuous Hat Clasp


Various Internet Sources 


Saturday, 22 June 2013

A Little Insite into what Diamonds are and how its Formed...

What is a Diamond?

Madhuri Sarvothama
Diamond Grading and Gemology Instructor, SDI

Diamond is a mineral that is a crystalline form of carbon (latin: Carbo"Coal"). Like graphite, diamond's chemical composition is Carbon. The carbon atoms in diamond are arranged in tight three- dimensional patterns with strong bonds in all direction, which makes diamond the hardest natural substance and an ideal gem for everyday wear.

Diamond- Round Brilliant Cut

Different views of a Round Brilliant Cut

How are Diamonds Formed?

Diamonds form between 90 and 120 miles under the surface of the earth, deep beneath the continents. This is where ideal conditions for normal diamond formation can exist- a temperature range of 900 degrees Celsius to 1300 degrees Celsius and pressures between 45 to 60 kilobars more than the normal sea- level pressure. Diamonds form three in two types rocks called peridotite and eclogite. They may remain below the earth for billions of years until conditions within the earth's mantle and magma rapidly transports the already- formed diamonds from the mantle region to the surface of the earth, leaving carrot- shaped pipes. Then the diamonds that are not blasted onto the surface may stay in the pipes for millions of years before someone discovers them. the host rock of the diamonds in the pipe is Kimberlite or Lamproite.

Diamond in the Ore

               If the diamonds are found in and around the pipes then this kind of deposits are called primary deposits. And all other deposits are called secondary deposits. If  due to weathering conditions, diamonds were carried into neighboring rivers and streams, and even into the ocean. Since diamonds are heavy, they sink to the bottom when caught in small whirlpools. Deposits in rivers and streams are called alluvial deposits and often contain higher quality diamonds than primary deposits within a diamond pipe because the better ones are more likely to survive the water's tumbling action against rocks. If the diamonds reach the ocean, they are called marine deposits.        

Renée Newman, Diamond Handbook- a practical guide to diamond evaluation: completely  revised 2nd edition 


Friday, 14 June 2013

An Article on Gemstones



-Raunak Agarwal
Gemology Instructor, SDI

Synthetic Gems
Synthetic means "put together". A synthetic(or laboratory- grown) gem is made from the same raw materials as the natural gem.

It is optically and chemically identical to the natural gem, but it came from a lab.

 The drive for synthetic began when industrial diamonds were needed during World War II. It took years to develop industrial- grade diamonds, and years more to be able to manufacture stones of gem quality. Producing the early   gem- quality diamonds was more expensive than mining for natural diamonds. Improved technology brought down the price of synthetic diamonds.

 When a gem made of non- natural material is offered for sale, it is the seller's responsibility to inform the buyer that it is not a natural gemstone. This disclosure must be made at all levels of jewellery sales. Synthetic gems cost only a fraction of the price of natural gems.


Simulants are imitation gems, fabricated from such materials as glass, ceramic or plastic.  resemble the appearance of the gem it is mimicking, but it cannot duplicate the true gem's characteristic properties. Simulants have different physical and chemical properties. Some common simulants of diamonds are synthetic moissanite, CZ(cubic zirconium), YAG(yttrium aluminum garnet) GGG(gadolinium gallium garnet), strontium titanate and synthetic rutile.
 A gemologist can easily distinguish a real gem from a simulant by using appropriate lab equipments.

Are Certificates Necessary? 

It is always a good idea to insist on a gemological certificate. The extra assurance of a gemological certificate not only provides peace of mind, but it can be useful for insurance purposes and future resale also.

For some coloured stones, treatments greatly affects the value of the gem. For example, an untreated ruby is worth far more than a treated one, an untreated sapphire is far more valuable than from an enhanced one.

(SDI) Solitaire Diamond Institute Gems & Jewellery Lab provides certification services also.

The lab report comes with shape, measurements, colour, clarity, R.I, S.G, weight and determination as to whether the stone is natural or synthetic. It may also indicate whether the gem has been subjected to treatments.  
SDI Lab Certificate

SDI Lab Certificate

Various Internet Sources



Friday, 7 June 2013

A peek into Technology- CAD Jewellery Designing

Why CAD?

- Nagaraksha
CAD Instructor, SDI

How much has technology influenced our day to day activities? Have we ever thought of it? Can we imagine a life without a mobile, computer laptop, etc, "No, not at all". Technology is bringing revolution in almost all fields. So it is with our own jewellery designing and manufacturing sector also.

We have been blessed with the development of CAD (Computer Aided Designing). What is CAD? It is the use of computers for making 2D drawings and 3D models (jewellery piece). CAD is gradually getting popular amongst the designers prefer jewellery pieces designed in CAD. Why is it so?? There are 'n' number of reasons to be told.

The most important of all is the precision which can be achieved up to 100%. CAD designs are of high quality and light weight. CAD designing takes very minimal time. So, the overall designing and production time for a piece hardly takes time thus your piece reaches the market faster (profits also reach you faster.... for which we all work..)
A Wax Mold and A White Gold Cast

Looking in other way, one system can replace many people, reducing manpower. Less people at work means easy management, effective communication, reduced expenses and so on.
 CAD files can be accessed by anyone involved in the process, even those based in different offices across the globe. Additionally, files can be sent instantly with the help of the Internet. When compared to traditional methods which require someone to track down files, pull them from a file cabinet, package them, hire a courier, and then wait several days for the files to reach their destination.
A CAD rendered piece (Finger Ring) by Keerthi Shree, CAD Instructor, SDI

CAD systems can also have a built-in system for calculating the costs of manufacturing the design, including any materials used, separate components and additional items. The costumer can be provided with clear estimate of bespoken jewellery even before it is manufactured.

The above are very few out of the many benefits of CAD to the designer, jeweller and buyer.
CAD drafting will no doubt continue to evolve and become more powerful, and remain, as one of the most important technological developments for the manufacturer and the consumer.
A CAD rendered piece (brooch) by Keerthi Shree, CAD Instructor, SDI

Various Internet Sources

Monday, 3 June 2013

An Article on Carved Stones


- Keerthi Shree S
Jewellery and CADD Designing Instructor, SDI

Carved Gemstones are sculptural pieces that can be worn as jewels. Abundantly available in nature, these fascinating pieces blend the mystery of nature with the skin of man. The designed style in carved stones often replicate nature, from the colours of suitable tourmalines to stunning pink corals. It is refreshing to perceive a free form carved piece of gem in jewellery than the faceted gem or cabochon. Diamond accent can elevate carved gem into the high- end jewellery. carved gemstones are of two kinds- A Cameo and Intaglio. Carving in intaglio, with the design projecting out of the background as in nearly all cameos, are also covered by the term.
A Jewellery from Victorian Era

The earliest engraved gemstone were the Egyptian scarab, carved to resemble a beetal, an intaglio; a flat gem with a image carved in relief above the planar surface. in Middle Ages, Mediterranean coral was used in religious beads and small carving and cameos. It was traded along ancient silk routs between Europe, Egypt and China as early as 100 B.C. Traders offered corals in exchange for silk, spice, porcelain and lacquer in the far Eastern and for many products from Africa.Superstition was not far behind either. Cameos of  legends like Alexander The Great, were said to possess magical powers and were often used by people as totems over the period of time.
A Manually Designed Cameo Jewellery Set

Women now a days are wearing jewellery to match the latest colour or style in fashion. This artistic creation would attract those who appreciate beauty.

What makes a gemstone unique to carving and faceting? Well, it is the toughness and hardness of the stones. It is their innate capability of their composition that makes them fit for carving or faceting. "In the case of minerals and gemstones, hardness refers first to scratch hardness, then to cutting resistance."Toughness on the other hand, "is its ability to resist being fractured".

There are various types of gemstones that are carved, the list encompasses coral, ivory, lapis lazuli, horn, amber, jade, amethyst, agate, onyx, spinel, shell and jets. These gemstones hold this prestigious podium because of their toughness quality. Thus, the list is selective and exclusive. The carved gemstones were expensive because of the high quality materials, the complexity of the design and the labour involved. The setting are most often inspired by the stone's shape and colour and by the mechanical constrained of carving. Sometimes it is a challenge to set stones that have very unusual shape. Today, the joy of wearing a beautiful carved gemstone jewellery piece is as great as ever.
An Intaglio ring
This type of jewellery's typical features may signify sized carved gemstone set on interesting assortment that can look very fancy and exquisite. Carved gemstone in fun shades and styles can be worn as necklace, earring, rings and bracelets.

Carved gemstone offer designers with creative versatility, these are accessible in shapes such as carved hearts, leaves, flowers and beads. Interesting designs combining carved and faceted gemstone created an exciting juxtaposition. These certainly set the stage for a contemporary and elegant look.

A Manually Designed Cameo Pendant


Peltason, Ruth; Living Jewels- Masterpieces from Nature; The Vendome Press, 2010

Schumann, Walter; Gemstones of the World; The Sterling Press; revised edition of 1976

Wednesday, 15 May 2013

Fashion Jewellery Article

An Article on Fashion Jewellery

  - Eshita Ramaprasad
  Fashion Jewellery Instructor, SDI

The difference between false memories and true ones is the same as for jewels: it is always the false ones that look real, the most brilliant.

                                -Salvador Dali

Fashion jewellery has been part of culture for almost 300 years. The term Fashion Jewellery dates back to early 20th century.  Jewell's made of semi-precious material were affordable, and this affordability gave people the chance to own Fashion jewellery. 
Fashion Jewellery is an exquisite Hand Made Jewellery. Though Fashion Jewellery has its varieties, I take pride in specializing in Beaded and Wired Jewellery. My Jewellery has components like,
  •  Glass Beads
  •  Seed Beads 
  •  Wooden Beads
  •   Tiger Tail 
  •  Wax Coated Cotton Cord 

  •   Beading Wire
  •   Eye and Head Pins
  •   Jump rings
  •    Clasps and Findings

Wooden Beads

Though there is a raging demand in India for precious gems and jewellery, fashion jewellery does not lag behind. In fashion jewellery the authenticity of creativity lies  unquestioned. For me it is not the techniques like macramé and wearing ......that intrigues me it is more so the idea of sporting something that is made from your own hand and creativity . The finished piece of a fashion jewellery visa vie that of a jewellery designed piece is more than just a brain child.

It is not to put down jewellery designing techniques but this way of working makes a designer more self-reliant than compared to anyone else.